This is a magnesium crawl glaze that contains a lot of clay. This means it can be applied on top of some other glazes and still retain its reticulations.
I invented this glaze myself. My goal was to make a crawling glaze that could be applied thick and not flake off.
Mix this glaze up thick- preferably in small batches and to the consistency of yogurt.
Apply a thin layer of a dark glaze, high in clay such as satin black to leather-hard ware or green ware, or barnard slip, and bisque this lower layer onto the clay. Dark clays also work well.
Apply a couple coats of Sonoran Crawler on top of the bisqueware with a brush and cease application once you observe cracking. The glaze will crack in the direction of your brush strokes! The more times you brush over the glaze as it dries, the better it adheres.
Under heavy reduction or on top of certain iron bearing bodies it can flash.
You can try adding a pinch of soda ash to the glaze in order to make it a little less thick without lowering the water content. Thinning this glaze down with water WILL cause it to peel off the piece, keep that specific gravity REALLY high. One day I may try mixing it to a thick paste and applying with a palette knife, but for now, yogurt consistency with a calligraphy bamboo brush works for me.
Test this glaze on top of various glazes. I've not had great luck with it over Temmoku, the fine powdery temmoku glaze prevents it from adhering properly. Shinos on the other hand seem to work well underneath it, and the soda ash from the shinos changes the texture in interesting ways.
To adjust the texture, change the ratio of Talc and Spodumene:
Decreasing talc, increasing spodumene by 2% results in a smoother, more lumpy surface.
Decreasing spodumene and increasing talc by 2% results in a rougher, more papery-bark-like surface.
Of course, test adjustments before using. Can you tell I have a bit of an obsession?
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